Dry Mahogany Wood

1
Apr

Dry Mahogany Wood

Wood Chemicals - Mixing, Coloring And Tinting

The chemical reactions of acids and alkalis with the wood's own constituents give a deep-laid colour which is comparatively inexpensive and (in most cases) lasts well. These are traditional stains, the only ones avail¬able before modern industrial chemistry, and are still used in antique restoration or where, say, new church furniture has to be matched to very old. White vinegar (acetic acid), if left with a handful of iron nails in it overnight, will turn oak almost black a matter of seconds after you apply it. A stain made from potas¬sium permanganate crystals dissolved in water will bring out a warm brown shade, and makes a good dye for floors because it is inexpensive, although it does fade. Potassium bichromate crystals, which are yellow and orange, dissolved in warm water, darken oak, ash, mahogany and other high tannic acid-content woods without affecting the basic colour. Burnt sienna - a pig¬ment - dissolves in stale beer and makes a very effective mahogany-coloured stain; and there are many more.

If you want to mix your own stain, start with a decision about the colouring agent and the base, and then experiment. Pigments are really best for touching up over an already sealed surface; water as a medium will give you problems with raised grain; slow-drying oils are easiest to apply evenly, but might strike through a finish; spirit-based dyes dry very quickly. Keep a careful record of the proportions you are using, and always test.

Touching in, painting grain lines over stopping (wood filler) and so on, is best done with oil (white spirit) and pigments - artist's oil pigments are fine. For french polishing, you can tint the finish by adding pigment or spirit aniline dyes to the shellac itself. Use a fine artist's brush, so that you can control exactly what colour goes where. Cellulose and synthetic lacquers have their own tinters. These fine touches should always be sealed on top; the order is stain, sealer, touch-in, finishing coats.

Coloured varnishes are already pigmented, and can be used to carry more. Used on their own, they are popular because they are not difficult to mix or apply but they are a quick compromise solution, and show up as such. There is nothing to recommend them in terms of appearance, in that they combine uneven pigment spread with the thick 'plastic on top' look of poly-urethane. These too should be given a top coat of clear varnish or polyurethane, whichever you are using.

About the Author

Learn how to sand wood and also how to saw wood with curve-cutting saws. Do not forget to wear gloves while working with saws.

Can i use a dowel as a bow? Will it still be flexible after i dry it after 12 hours of being soaked in water?

im thinking of making a bow out of a 4-5 inch diameter 40 inch dowel. For those wood workshoppers out there, you probably know that a dowel is simply a cylindrical stick, in english. my choices of wood are, and yes they are the only ones, oak, mahogany, redwood, maple, and walnut. which type of wood is best here and another question is if the dowel will stay flexible after soaking it in warm water overnight. a bow is not a bow if the wood and/or string dont bend. so which wood is most flexible and durable? i dont mind the price.

P.S. is it recommended i use the same wood for my arrows?
Well, 5 inches is way too big. I meant really 2.5 inches

You won't be able to bend that dowel no matter how wet you get it.

Wooden bows are made out of flat layers of various woods, glued together into the curve of the unstrung bow, stacked in order of their strength and flexibility.

http://www.thebeckoning.com/medieval/longbow/longbow.html

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